Who doesn’t love chatting about the tricks of the trade on how to make your makeup look great and last? We recently sat down with celebrity makeup artist Daniel Chinchilla, the man known to many as Ariana Grande’s makeup artist, to discuss everything from the infamous and enviable Ariana Grande cat eye, contouring, how to accentuate your favorite facial features, to every girl’s beauty must have for fall!
SociaLifeChicago: What is your trick to getting the perfect wing?
Daniel Chinchilla: The wing is definitely something I tell people you have to practice with. It’s not something you will get right away because there is a certain technique to it and it can be a little tricky especially for the people who aren’t very steady handed. Start off with a pencil and create the shape. That is going to be the easiest way to get started with the wing. If you jump into the cat eye with a cream or a liquid it is going to be a disaster because its harder to deal with, even for the most steady handed person. A pencil allows for a little more room for error. Start at the end of eye (outside) and wing up towards the end of the eyebrow to lift the eye up; create the line of the wing from the end of the eye towards the eyebrow and then bring the wing inward. A lot of people make the mistake of going straight out or down which tends to make the eye look droopy.
Tip- start from the outside. For makeup you want to create the shape and then bring it inward. Once you create the shape everything becomes a little bit easier because it allows you to know what direction to go in.”
SLC: What is the best concealer for under the eye dark circles?
DC: I love Tarte concealers. The maracuja creasless concealers are great! You can go natural but you can also get very full coverage and look super smooth! For the Tarte concealer or any concealer, go a couple shades lighter with the under eye concealer and stick to colors that are more peachy or yellow based because those conceal and get rid of any darkness; try and stay away from pink concealers. What I recommend is to use this with the Smashbox under eye primer. It was one of those products that I found and was like wow this exists?! It’s a concealer primer. Priming is very important when it comes to everything about makeup. Foundation, lips, eyes, eyeshadow, everything. If you layer the Smashbox primer with the Tarte concealer it gives such a smooth finish and it is much more long lasting. Then set that with a translucent powder.
SLC: Any specific translucent powder you use?
DC: Any powder! Maybelline has a great one, which you might not think of them first. Sometimes you’d be surprised that the drugstores have the best finds, especially for the money! Some products no matter what, do the same thing! Laura Mercier, Two Faced have great ones too; as long as it’s not a heavy powder, you will be okay!
SLC: When it comes to foundations, one can go either dewy or matte, do you use different ones? Is it all about the illuminator or highlighter?
DC: When changing foundations it really does depend on your skin. The whole look definitely starts with the foundation. There are foundations that give you a more luminous finish and there are foundations that give you a much more dryer or matte finish depending on your skin or what you are trying to achieve. So that is the first step and then you would go to the highlighters. But again, for example Two Faced their Born this Way foundation is new and is really great. It gives medium to full coverage and gives a really pretty dewy skin like finish, it’s so great. Then there is the Tarte Amazonian Clay Foundation, which is great for more oily skin but it still gives you a soft glow. I tend to stay away from really dry/matte foundations because I feel like it ages the skin and makes you look older. It looks dehydrated, and what you want is luminous skin. Realistically we all want to look youthful! You can also add highlighters if needed right on the cheekbone and on the bridge of the nose. Smashbox has a really good highlighter that isn’t too “white,” it is more bronze.
Going from look to look how do you know what to use?
SLC : With all these celebrities doing the matte lip and darker colors is there anything you recommend doing to avoid clumpy or peeling lips and help the lip color last?
DC: The main thing is the health of your lips. Just like foundation, it’s the same thing with lips. If your lips are really dry or dehydrated your lipstick is not going to look as good and it will probably crack and peel off. I definitely recommend a good lip moisturizer first. Then even a lip scrub. Grab a little bit of sugar and put water on it and scrub your lips with it. It’s Free. Simple. And it exfoliates the lips and takes off any dry or dead skin. As far as a lip moisturizer, it varies on each person.
SLC: Are there any touch ups or tricks that can help spruce up one’s look from day to night?
DC: The main thing is to make the eyes pop; adding a little bit of eyeliner and mascara-always black mascara-does the trick. If you can put on false eyelashes too, I know that is kind of a hard thing to do for most people but if you can get some corner lashes on, that will really accentuate the look. It will literally be like night and day. Again another coat of mascara without it looking clumpy does the trick as well.
SLC: Favorite mascara?
DC: I have two actually. Too Faced’s Better Than Sex and I love L’Oreal voluminous . I love that and it doesn’t clump; They reformulated it and made it better! With mascara, you should change it every four weeks because you are putting it on your eye where dirt and bacteria can easily travel and you could give yourself an eye infection. You should never have your mascara for more than 2 or 3 months. I know my mom will always have it and I’m like “mom I gave this to you for Christmas!” Its just one of those things you don’t think about.
SLC: As an artist which do you prefer doing a dramatic eye or lip, what’s more enjoyable for you to do on your client? I
DC: I think it depends. There’s not a certain favorite I have, I like to accentuate people’s best features. That’s what my favorite is. Because I feel like if you do that you will always look your best. So if you have Kylie Jenner lips or whatever why wouldn’t you make that a priority? Because if you accentuate those you are going to look their best, because they are pretty! So I want to zone in on what is pretty! I always say play down what your least favorite features and play up your best features! Like you, you have amazing lashes, so why would you not wear mascara?! It changes everything without it and that’s because you have great lashes! So whatever is your best feature definitely play that up! Cater to what your best features are!
SLC: I feel like back in the day there were more rules to makeup like don’t wear a crazy eye if you are going to do a bright lip or just different little things people used to say. Do you think those rules are changing?
DC: The rules are gone! With Instagram, those rules are out the door. I have seen some stuff though (laughs). I think we are in this phase where people think “oh let me put 90 things on my face because that Instagram girl did it? And I feel like it is a little overboard. I do feel like there are boundaries. If you are doing a smoky eye you might not want to go so crazy with the lip. Or you might not want to put as much blush on. Because you want to play up certain things and you don’t want to play up everything. Because it starts to look a little overdone, a little stagey. For everyday life you might not want to look like you are going on stage, or maybe you do? Hey whatever you want!! Ha.
SLC: Fall is here! Any special products, things we should know about?
DC: Bronzers are really in for fall, so are dark lips. Now is the time to really try out those vampy reds and those deep purples. I love vampy lips! So reds, purples, burgundies are really in for lips. Big lashes are in. You know what else, blush is in, pops of color, bright cheeks. Urban Decay has a new really cool blushes called afterglow 8-Hour Powder Blush. I know that we were in a phase where it was just about bronzer and contouring and now it’s the opposite. Now contouring is kind of phasing out and blush is back in! Like pops of pink, pops of peach. I love a dark lip with a pop of color on the face. I’m all excited. It’s a basic thing, if you think about it, but blush became such a dated thing. It was like “oh you’re not supposed to use blush you’re just supposed to use bronzer.” So I’m happy! I love blush, I’m a blush freak!”
That’s exciting, bye bye contour hello blush for Fall!