The mood was set by the luminescent glow that illuminated the garden at the Via Gesù show space. It was like the light from a swimming pool. And into that glow stalked the tawny-maned goddesses who have roamed the Versace landscape since time immemorial. “The meeting of old and new Versace,” Donatella said. That meeting could mean something as elemental as neoprene and plissé in the same outfit. Or shorts where a pelmet mini would have once sufficed. And the gold studs were clearly something Donatella felt an affinity for, if the outfit she wore to take her bow was any indication.
And that may be the collection’s greatest plus. There is no way to judge it outside its own context—and that context is Donatella. Those Lucite platforms? Pure blonde. The fractured starfish that anchored Sigrid Agren’s bifurcated gown? The plissé pastels? The Reggio Calabrian white with the Greek inflection? All of it an element in some way of Donatella’s own design history. Which makes this collection a test of the power of personality in fashion.
JIL SANDER SP/S 2012
From Vogue UK:
Raf Simons is of the intellectual school of fashion – his collections frequently display painstaking thought and deep aesthetic vision far beyond the realm of simply clothing – but he has a knack of making it really look good, even if the cerebral spiel isn’t for you.
We walked in to take our seats today over geometric blocks of blue, yellow and black gravel – “shoe wrecker gravel” exclaimed Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou as she assessed the damage to her (gorgeous) new orange Alaias.
And then we were treated to a show whose pure simplicity was refreshing and whose unique point of view made us feel as if fashion week had just begun – quite a feat when we’re only half way through Milan and a monster Paris Fashion Week is still to come.
pronounced: Boh-la-jee, like the Bellagio but w/o the O. SLC Founder and Editor, loves to write about topics at the intersection of career and lifestyle for today's young professional and future leaders.